Restaurant review: Propeller, North Fremantle serves up some of the best Middle Eastern flavors in WA

There was furore over the TikTok video last week and it had nothing to do with the viral courtroom antics of Johnny Depp and Amber Heard.

In a much healthier use of the video-sharing platform, one user showed off a beautiful swimming spot with turquoise water, scenic rock pools and not a person for miles.

People loved the pictures. They didn’t love his refusal to share his whereabouts in the comments section, though.

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Within hours, however, videos showed exactly where she was swimming and how to get there.

We like to use the word hidden gem and feel like we’ve discovered something very special when it comes to places to eat and explore, but in a social media driven world, chances are hundreds are aware of the same secret.

Camera iconHélice: Sambousek, beef turnovers with cinnamon ($12) Credit: Jade Jurewicz

A few years ago I may have described Propeller as a hidden gem.

Although it’s been open since 2014 and loved by many, it can be easy to miss in its small pocket of North Fremantle. Moreover, for its quality, it does not always receive many accolades.

Its head chef, Kurt Sampson, can make everything taste great, using bold flavors from the Middle East and Levant, though the tongue I tried once is the one dish I’m not rushing to try again.

On this visit, we started with the cinnamon beef turnovers sambousek (think small meat pie) ($12).

    Propeller: Tomato, manoushe mozzarella ($15)
Camera icon Propeller: Tomato, manoushe mozzarella ($15) Credit: Jade Jurewicz

It was an unusual but delicious mix of sweet and salty tender meat with a hint of cinnamon coated in a crispy batter and dusted with an icing sugar mixture. A dip probably isn’t a traditional addition, but could have elevated it even more.

The tomato, mozzarella manoushe ($15) looks like a simple mini pizza, but with high-quality ingredients on a light base, there’s not much more you could expect from the dish.

Harissa Cuttlefish, Tomato and Olive Vinaigrette ($22) made me fall in love with protein all over again. After having had a few average riffs lately, this one’s charred cooking with a thick, salty “dressing” sprinkled with capers and olives was perfect.

Propeller: Silver beet fatteh, chickpeas, tahini yogurt, chili butter ($18)
Camera iconPropeller: Silver beet fatteh, chickpeas, tahini yogurt, chili butter ($18) Credit: Jade Jurewicz

On the slightly heavier side, the silver beet fatteh, chickpeas, tahini yogurt and chili butter ($18) was a warm, wintry dish with buttered silver beet and a grilled top, whose color and the texture reminded me of the best corners of a lasagna. .

Grilled fish (rankin cod the night we went) with spicy tomato couscous ($38) was a savory piece of fish just cooked on a bed of couscous full of flavor.

So, in the spirit of not keeping the good stuff, here’s the address of this excellent venue that you’ll definitely want to keep your little secret too.

Helix

Address: 222 Queen Victoria Street, North Fremantle

The verdict: Bold and more dishes cooked very well. Service is friendly and prompt, and space agency-designed interiors of local architects suit the original shipping container and garage.

Rating: 8.5/10

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