The shops lining Bukit Pasoh have become increasingly bustling and diverse over the past couple of years. Along with classics like cocktail bar Live Twice (which recently ranked No. 65 on the extended list of Asia’s 50 Best Bars) and oyster bar Humpback, you’ll find gems like French restaurant Clos Pasoh and Rebel Rebel natural wine.
The latest to join the fray is Poisson, which translates to “fish” in French, so you’ll already know what to expect in one word.
Brought to you by restaurateurs Geoffrey Weckx and Pierre Bolly, the marine-inspired dining room, awash in the colors and features of the sea, sees a menu inspired by coastal cities around the world.
Although we’ll never really know, Poisson’s positioning on sourcing is clear – they’re sourced from certified sustainable fish farms and independent international seafood suppliers, with every ingredient on the menu ethically harvested.
Separated simply into two sections, we dive headfirst into the decadence of the Cold Stream on a balmy evening, accompanied by a flute of Champagne Delamotte Blanc de Blanc ($32/$165).
Taste the creamy smoothness of locally farmed blue shrimp at Blue Ebi (S$52), which is beautifully balanced with a delicate oil infused with spring onion, Bafun uni and hybrid Kaluga Queen caviar.
The luxury continues with Smoke Uno ($62, two-piece), a blend of sea urchin and caviar over smoked Negitoro tuna, Japanese egg omelette and seaweed. While it handles a heavy load well, the combined sweetness of the crispy cereal cookie base and tamago may seem overly sweet, but we think this chef’s signature will find plenty of fans.
If it’s a tough pass at uni, try the Amber & Jack ($32). Sweet and oily slices of hamachi are marinated in a citrus vinaigrette and topped with juicy pineapple, pomegranate seeds and glazed lettuce leaves.
Fresh and simple, my only complaint is that the yellow tail slices could be made thinner – or more dressing to coat them – to better bring out the other flavors in the dish.
Among the larger plates at the Hot Stream, the Gadus ($36) stood out with its lighter-than-usual Thai red curry broth, which sang in harmony with the week-long dry-aged salmon. Usually paired with steamed Atlantic cod, we reckon crispy skinned salmon is a better option – or who knows? Executive Chef Ma might pull out another fish from the dry ager.
One for seafood pasta lovers, Creamy Toff ($62++) features homemade trofie pasta tossed with meaty hand-peeled mangrove crab and salted bottarga (dried fish roe). There’s more college to top it all off.
Taking its name from the hit Netflix series, The Game ($24) sees squid, marinated simply in garlic, grilled and served with a tangy onion and tomato puree. It was quite enjoyable, although we would have slid in more fervently if the squid had come with more char for that smoky flavor.
The drinks menu at Le Poisson is quite extensive.
Cocktails aren’t the strong point here, so opt for something from their elegant wine list or sake instead. In addition to the previous sparkling, there was a light and dry sauvignon blanc from Domaine Delaporte Sancerre which went well with the Amber & Jack.
The sweet and slightly acidic Lucien Muzard et Fils Bourgogne Rouge ($20/$95) played well with Gadus and The Game.
Fish is located at 48 Bukit Pasoh Road, Singapore 089859, p. +65 6223 2131. Open Tue-Sat 12pm-2pm, 6pm-11.30pm.
This article was first published in City Nomads.