New Restaurant Review: Creekside Supper Club

Kitsch. Charming. Adorable. Creekside Supper Club is all of that.

Perhaps the closest the new breed of supper clubs come to a true rural Minnesota or Wisconsin supper club, Creekside plays the hits. Woodwork, check. Curtains from your great-aunt Shirley’s house, you bet. The only thing missing is a bunch of old guys sitting around smoking camels.

This is a fabulous makeover of the old El Burrito and Pepito space on Chicago Avenue, next to the Parkside Theatre. You’ll sink into the leather seat cushions of wheelchairs and feel like you need to pull out a deck of cards and play a game of Pinochle. The service is warm and friendly. The crowd is made up of young families from the neighborhood. The feeling is the thing. The food is comfortable, familiar, and I would rate it squarely in the “pretty good” category.

What to eat: I’m hesitant to recommend a $19 relish platter (shouldn’t it be free?!?!), but it’s worth it. Think of it more like a charcuterie platter. During our visit we had an amazing smoked trout dip and very good wild gameand sausage. There is medium cheese curd on it which has cooled quite quickly.

We also enjoyed the prime rib, although the Queen Cut was $28 when we visited, and the website now lists it at $36. (Spend $42 and get the big boy with that minor differential.) Tender, juicy, perfectly cooked – I love prime rib, and it’s a treat.

The $11 French onion soup warmed my soul on a cold winter’s night (yes, it’s got brandy in it), and the steaks were well done if not seasoned. Still, who complains about a $28 sirloin with a side and a choice of soup or salad?

Save room for a supper-club classic: a grasshopper mint-colored ice cream drink or a cocoa-colored Alexander brandy for dessert ($8 each).

It’s not perfect, precise cooking. it’s more like a hug, a warm blanket, and at a time when many of us are coming out of a few years of uncertainty, maybe that’s all we need?

4820 Chicago Avenue, Minneapolis, 612-354-3675, creeksidemn.com

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